Diamond Information

Cut and shape are two very important elements to consider when choosing a diamond. There are a great many combinations of the two out there, and that can make buying the right ring/diamond a frustrating task at times. But the truth is, there is not right or wrong there, only what feels right to you, and your story—and we’re here to help you find just that!

 Round Cut-

Round Cut stones account for roughly 75% of stones sold anywhere. One of the reasons for the style’s popularity is its superior brilliance. Round cut diamonds sport 57-58 facets and can match the fanciest stones in reflection and retention of brilliance. Over time, they have seen a drastic hike in market value due to their ever-increasing popularity, as well the very the cut is processed. Cutting a Round diamond requires much of a rough/original stone to be chiseled away in order to maximize brilliance, but the final product is certainly worth it.

 Princess Cut-

The Princess Cut stone comes in second place in terms of market popularity; however, the Cut still stands as the most popular “fancy” diamond. Compared to Round Cut stones, which only retain 50% of the original stone once chiseled, the Princess Cut retains 80%, making it generally less expensive than its counterparts.

It is important to note that Princess Cut stones are square in appearance, but will actually appear slightly rectangular in shape to the trained eye. Their corners are extremely delicate, and when on the market for one, it is critical to find a stone set in very supportive prongs to avoid chipping and breaking.

 Emerald Cut-

The Emerald Cut in one of the most versatile styles you’ll come across. This silhouette is always flattering, no matter the stone it is cut from. Its elegance and flair help any hand wearing it look more delicate and slender, and because the cut creates an illusion that makes any stone look larger than its true size.

Emerald Cut stones are generally affordable due to their tapered edges making them more prone to snagging and chipping and also, due to the shallow depth of the cut limiting its ability to retain brilliance as a Round and Princess Cut would. We therefore recommend pairing this style with a 4-prong setting; it would allow light to penetrate the shallow cuts of the stone and improve brilliance. When properly handled, the Emerald Cut delivers amazing luster, clarity and polish.

 Oval Cut-

The Oval Cut diamond is a relatively new style. Introduced in the 1960’s, the Oval Cut is a unique twist on the classic Round Cut stone, and shares its superiority in brilliance, minus the hefty price. On average, Oval Cuts are 30% cheaper than Round Cuts, and actually appear bigger than their true size. This shape compliments slender fingers very well. One of its shortcomings however, is that it creates a “Bow-Tie Effect”; meaning: the elongated nature of the stone creates a bow tie like shadow that blocks out some of the light. With that in mind, finding an oval shaped diamond whose Bow Tie doesn’t distract from the beauty or design of the ring is tricky but crucial.

 Marquise Cut-

Similar to the Oval shape, the Marquise specializes in the illusion of a larger stone. This cut has the largest crown surface area of any cut, and also generously compliments long slender fingers. The elongated nature of the Marquise results in its points being very delicate. The tips of this stone are cut at the edge of the original rough diamondfor maximum width. Its points should be supported by a prong setting to avoid chipping. Just as the Oval, this shape creates a Bow Tie Effect which blocks out some its light. That can vary from severe to virtually invisible,

 Heart-

The Heart shape stone is a literal rendering and the ultimate patron of love and adoration. This style features remarkable symmetry. Its two halves must be identical for the ring to reflect light brilliantly. It is suggested to not go under 50 carats when buying this stone, otherwise the clear definition of the shape might not be seen. The heart shape doesn’t do well in hiding imperfections or color, so we prefer to use high quality rough diamond when crafting them.

 Pear Cut-

The Pear Cut is a striking blend of the Round and Marquise cut. Its narrowed tip is worn in the direction of the owner, and should always be held in place with a prong to protect the delicate nature of the tip of the stone. This stone can also carry a bow tie effect that can vary from severe to virtually invisible.

 Radiant Cut-

The Radiant Cut earned its name from the brilliant cut facet pattern applied to both the crown and the pavilion of the stone. Like the Princess Cut, it is chiseled in a square shape, but the more rectangular the cut is, the higher the chance that the stone will have a Bow Tie. The Radiant Cut is virtually a Princess Cut with chipped corners, and in fact, they often cannot be told apart when in a prong setting. 

Cushion Cut-

Commonly referred to as the “Old Mine Cut”, the cushion cut resembles a pillow, with its squared shape and round corners. Before the Round Cut made its appearance around 1919, the Cushion Cut was the most desired shape on the market. The Cushion Cut doesn’t reflect brilliance as well as the Round, but it does a better job in reflecting fire (Rainbow colors). This classic stone is most prized amidst antique dealers and as well as the common buyer. Something about the antique design paired with the modern amenities entices today’s buyers.

Asscher Cut-

The modern Asscher Cut that we see today, is a bit modified from its original design created by the Asscher brothers in 1902. Today’s Asscher Cut closely resembles the Emerald, with the difference being that the Asscher Cut has larger step facets, as well as an elevated crown and a smaller table. It also has chipped corners, but once set in a prong setting, it will appear to have a square shape. This cut does not do much in terms of hiding imperfections, so we recommend higher-grade clarity and color stones for this cut.

 

Trillion Cut-

The Trillion Cut is made for those who favor a larger stone. The stone is wide with extremely shallow cuts limiting reflection of light. This also means that they must be cleaned regularly to maximize brilliance. Trillion Cut stones need a special V-prong shape setting due to their vulnerability to shipping and unusual shape.

 

Straight Baguette Cut-

The Straight Baguette stones are rectangular and have a delicate Step cut. The cut of this stone is perfect for reflecting white light and brilliance but not fire (rainbow colors).

 

Tapered Baguette Cut-

The Tapered Baguette stone has a delicate step cut. The cut of this stone is perfect for reflecting white light and brilliance but not fire (rainbow colors).

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There are 4 Cs to consider when choosing diamond: Carat, Cut, Color and Clarity. Each of these elements brings something distinctive and vital to the diamond. All together the 4 Cs not only determine quality of your diamond.

Carat

The first C is Carat, also known as Carat Weight. It is one of the most important features to consider when judging diamond quality. First, we should note that diamond Carat Weight, and Size are not the same thing. Today the Carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams, and one individual carat is the equivalent to 100 points, so that a 50-point diamond is equivalent to a ½ carat diamond. With larger rough diamonds being rare in nature, size and price are usually relative—the bigger the stone, the higher the price. That being said, price is also affected by clarity, color and cut. That’s why we usually recommend that our low budget customers opt for popular carat weights ( ½ ct., ¾ ct., 1ct. etc.), it can be a real money saver! A diamond at .45 ct. will be roughly around the same size as a ½ ct stone but be significantly cheaper.

 Cut

The second C is for diamond Cut. The cut is determined by stone symmetry, proportions and polish; it can make or break the stone. Cut influences brilliance (white light), and fire (beautiful rainbow colors). It is important to search for the grading of the cut of a stone, the higher the grading, the better the stone looks overall. The diamond could appear to be 2-3 grades higher in color, and appear to look better than that of a stone with a higher clarity.

The cut of the diamond facets (flat faces on geometric shapes) determines the quality of the stone. Brilliant, step or mixed are three of the basic facet arrangements. Brilliant facets originate from the center and branch out towards the edge in triangular patterns. On the other hand, step cut have trapezoidal facets that run parallel to the gridle of the diamond. Mixed cuts aren’t common but have the shared features of brilliant and step cuts.

It is also important to consider the two percentages of a cut of a stone: table and depth. The table percentage can be found dividing the longest table measurement by the average gridle diameter, all measure in mm, and the depth percentage found by using the average depth and dividing that by the average gridle diameter. If special care and attention isn’t given to the cutting process, light will be lost and will not return to the eye.


Proportions Criteria are as shown below: 


Premium Cut
" Ideal Cut"
"Excellent Ideal Cut"
Total Depth
58.8% - 63.8%
58.0% - 63.8%
59.2% - 62.4%
Table Size
58.0 - 61.0%
53.0% - 58.0%
52.5% - 58.4%
Crown Height
13.0% - 17.0%
14.2% - 16.2%
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Crown Angle
32.7° - 36.3°
33.7° - 35.8°
32.5° - 35.4°
Pavilion Depth
41.7% - 45.0%
42.2% - 43.8%
41.5% - 44.4%

Color

The third C is Color; color is probably the C that is most worth compromising on. Even to the trained eye, when set, the exact color of a stone is difficult to see. Color is based on a grading scale from D to Z (created by the gemological institute of America or the GIA). The GIA scaling system is the most commonly used system but laboratories that use this system are slightly more lenient in grading than the GIA itself. Z through K are stones with clearly detectable color. J-G are nearly colorless stones and these are perfect for those looking to maximize their budget. F through D are colorless stones and are extremely rare compared to the other stones.

 Clarity

Lastly, the 4th C is clarity. Clarity also ranks low on the list of importance when choosing a stone. Not to say that it isn’t important but compared to cut and carat weight, which are both very difficult to compromise on, Clarity is graded on the amount of inclusions a stone has. The less inclusions the higher the clarity grade is. It is very hard for the naked eye to detect these inclusions. The rarest stone is one rated FL in clarity, these stones has the least amount of subtle imperfections. Especially when compared to a 12-13, the lowest stone on the clarity grading scale.


SymbolMeaningDefinition
FFlawless

Free from all inclusions or blemishes.

IF

Internally Flawless

No inclusions visible at 10x magnification.

VVS1

Very Very Slightly Included #1

Inclusions that are extremely difficult to locate at 10x.
VVS2Very Very Slightly Included #2 Inclusions that are very difficult to locate at 10x.
VS1

Very Slightly Included #1

Minor inclusions that are difficult to locate at 10x.

VS2

Very Slightly Included #2

Minor inclusions that are somewhat difficult to locate at 10x.

SI1

Slightly Included #1

Noticeable inclusions that are easy to locate at 10x.

Sl2

Slightly Included #2

Noticeable inclusion that are very easy to locate at 10x.

I1

Included #1

Obvious inclusions. Somewhat easy to locate with the unaided eye.

I2

 Included #2

Obvious inclusions. Easy to locate with the unaided eye.

I3

Included #3

Obvious inclusions. Very easy to locate with the unaided eye.

Taking care of your Diamond

The diamond is the hardest natural substance on Earth. It can scratch any kind of rock or metal, but interestingly can only be scratched by another diamond. And yet, it is easy for a human finger to mark a diamond through touch. Because diamonds are natural magnets of grease, they are not easy to keep clean. Handling a diamond with your fingers provides enough oils from your skin (the type of “grease” that most affects diamonds) to alter the way your diamond looks. Constant contact/touch over time will lead to your stone collecting dirt, and losing its sparkle.

You will need to clean your diamond regularly, and wear it consciously/sparingly. A simple plan to keep your diamond jewelry beautiful is to soak them in an ammonia-based household cleaner (such as window cleaner) overnight, once or twice weekly. In the morning, remove the diamond from the cleaner and brush it with a soft, clean toothbrush (one that has not previously been used in any way, and that you reserve exclusively for cleaning your diamond) to remove any leftover dirt. Take extra care to brush the back of the diamond, as this will be the area that has collected the most oil and dirt. Beware that fragile settings and antique jewelry won’t take kindly to being scrubbed with a toothbrush, so use a soft touch. Then, simply rinse the diamond with water and wipe it with a soft, lint-free cloth.

Do not use harsh solutions such as: Chlorine (as in household bleach) and abrasives (such as household cleansers or toothpaste).They will harm the stone, and especially the band they ae set in. They can erode some of the metals often used in settings, and may loosen prongs, or even dissolve the metal completely.

Sometimes an ultrasonic cleaner is necessary to remove encrusted dirt on diamonds. By sending high frequency sound waves through a detergent solution, ultrasonic cleaners cause vibrating fluid to remove accumulated dirt and grime. However, they can also shake loose stones from their mounting, so this method shouldn’t be used on fragile settings (or estate jewelry), and is best undertaken by a professional jeweler.

Regular cleaning will keep your diamond jewelry in gleaming condition and ready to sparkle on that special occasion.


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Metals-

The metal you choose for your ring setting and band is vital to the overall look of the ring. After all, the band is the foundation of the ring, and serves to support the stone aesthetically as well as physically. So it is important to know the difference between various metals and to account for the way they will influence the overall appeal of your ring. 

14 K 18 K-

The difference between 14 K gold and 18 K gold is purity, and subsequently, price. 18 K gold is 75% gold and 25% alloy. In contrast, 14 K gold is slightly less expensive because it is 58% gold and 42 % alloy. 14 K gold is considered more ideal for everyday use because of its impurities, the higher concentration of alloy hardens the metal. In contrast, the softness of the 18 K gold makes it more of a special occasion piece.

White-

White Gold is a favorite of modern styles. It is generally favored over Yellow and Rose Gold which could be due to the way it illuminates the whiteness of a diamond without adding additional color. White gold is visually similar to platinum and cheaper. Also, Its composition of alloys makes it far more durable than yellow gold.

Rose-

Rose gold is the most affordable of its kind. It earns it name from its characterizing pinkish hue, which is achieved by blending the metal with copper. This lowers the price of the metal, which is more durable than white and yellow gold, and compliments a variety of skin tones.

Yellow-

Yellow gold is a classic, and therefore perfect for vintage styled rings. Its color hides lower grade colored diamonds. It is the purest of its kind and also malleable/easy for jewelers to manipulate.

Platinum-

Although similar to white gold in appearance, platinum is a far more elusive metal, relatively more expensive and therefore a symbol of prestige. Most importantly, it is hypoallergenic, more durable than its counterparts, and heavier. 

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 Custom-

Our very talented team works tirelessly to create the perfect ring for you and loved one.  We can bring a sketch, a picture, a CAD design, even an idea to life, and have it delivered right to your doorstep. Once the design is created you will be contacted and asked for feedback, our team is committed to seeing your exact unique design created, and will work with you to make that happen!

Submission-

You will receive a quote within 24 hours of submission. CAD image and hand carved waxed will need around 72 hours to process. The finished product will be delivered within 7-10 business days.

To submit

Emails us at sales@amcordesign.com

Mail in orders at 46 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036

Call us with any inquiries at (212) 354-2275